What’s the deal with almond milk?

Hello, everyone! I have officially finished my first week of work with the City of Guelph, and boy am I exhausted. The work itself wasn’t physically demanding, but settling in to a new routine, trying to orient myself in a new place, learning so many new things, reading so many training manuals…it is just as tiring!

I briefly mentioned my co-op job in my last post on sustainable fashion, but for more of an explanation, my position is “Solid Waste Programs Assistant” at the Waste Resource Innovation Centre in Guelph. This is the main waste management department under the municipal government, dealing with everything from weekly garbage collection, hazardous waste, violations against the department’s nine Environmental Compliance Acts and waste reduction initiatives around the city. One of the big projects that Solid Waste Resources is working on right now is implementing composting in multi-residential buildings (condominiums, townhouses, apartments) across Guelph. This is a big deal! I can count on less than one hand the number of city’s in Ontario (maybe even Canada) that have city-wide composting available to multi-residential buildings.

This past week has been just training and orientation, and next week I will begin the real work. I’m learning to use these cool computer programs called 311GIS and Innovasuite to track waste collection issues/illegal dumping/other violations within the city, and I’ve already learned so much about how Guelph is working to meet their sustainable development goals. I’m excited to see what I will be learning in the future!

That’s enough about me. Let’s get on to today’s post: all about almond milk. An increasingly popular “health” food and “sustainable alternative” to cows milk, this beverage has been dominating the food and beverage markets for the last few years. Today you can find all sorts of almond milk-based products, from ice cream to yogurt to smoothies. But why is it so popular? And is it really as sustainable as we make it out to be? Stay tuned to find out!

There are a variety of non-dairy milk alternatives: almond, soy, coconut, cashew, rice, and oat milks. There’s other, less common ones like quinoa, flax, hazelnut and pecan milks, which I haven’t tried but am curious to. Personally I prefer almond milk above the rest, although I regularly use coconut milk while cooking/baking and take whatever alternative is available when I go to a coffee shop.

Dairy alternative drinks are booming, says Innova Market Insights

There are many reasons why someone may choose to consume a non-dairy alternative over cows milk. Lactose intolerance is a common reason, which may or may not be genetic and varies greatly by geography. The individuals with an intolerance have little (or no) lactase enzyme to break down lactose, the natural sugar in cows milk. The resulting symptoms from drinking cows milk can include bloating, indigestion, acne and more. In contrast, Cow Milk Protein Intolerance (CMPI) is a potential and different reason that some people avoid dairy, although not the most prevalent reason. This is an allergy to a protein found in cows milk, triggering an immune response in the stomach and intestines to the foreign protein. Interestingly, those with CMPI may also not be able to digest fortified soy beverages containing the same protein. CMPI is short-lived compared to lactose intolerance, disappearing in 90 percent of children by the age of six. Lactose intolerance can increase with age and by diet.

50 percent of US shoppers purchase both dairy and nondairy milk products. Only 4 percent of shoppers consume only dairy alternatives. According to a new study by Cargill, only 35 percent of nondairy consumption is because of lactose intolerance and 28 percent because of dairy sensitivity or allergy. Some other reasons people avoid or interchange dairy/nondairy products in their diet is to avoid growth hormones found in cows milk, saturated fat, are vegan/support animals rights, or simply for the taste. I use dairy alternatives like almond milk because of lactose sensitivity, although I can interchange most dairy items. I cannot handle straight cows milk because of the high lactose concentration, but items like cheese and yogurt I can eat usually without a problem.

So, almond milk is the most popular dairy alternative. However, there are a lot of mixed feelings about almond milk. An alternative to dairy milk, it is becoming increasingly available across the world in grocery stores, coffee shops and restaurants. A 2017 report by Mintel indicated that almond milk made up 64 percent of the non-dairy market in the United States, soy milk in a far second with only 13 percent. All together, the non dairy milk market for 2018 was estimated to be 16.3 billion US dollars, growing 61 percent from 2012 to 2017. If this data indicates anything, it’s that people across the world are transitioning more and more towards a plant-based lifestyle, or at least incorporating more plant-based items into their daily lives.

There are two main debates about almond milk: its health benefits and environment benefits. While almond milk has both advantages and shortcomings in these two areas, there is no sound answer as to whether it is “good” or “bad.” That decision comes down to you, the consumer. I believe that almond milk has more good points than faults, which is why it is my go-to milk replacement. Below I will explain the various points debated in hopes of clarifying this rather confusing topic for you.

Health

Sensitivities/allergies

As mentioned, almond milk is the most popular alternative to dairy, the main reason being lactose intolerance. Almond milk does not contain lactose sugar, so it is easier to digest for those lacking lactase enzymes.

While allergies/sensitivities to milk are common in infants, it is not advised to substitute cows milk for almond milk when feeding infants: a study found that infants less than one year old who drank almond milk exclusively for 1-3 months showed higher levels of malnutrition and nutrient deficiencies than the control group consuming cows milk. Some of the studied children developed severe iron deficiency anemia, nutritional rickets and edema. This data argues that the infants missed out on key nutrients in cows milk that aid their growth and development. These results are repeated for infants consuming any plant-based milk instead of cows milk.

Promoting heart health and antioxidant-rich

Almonds are a rich source of vitamin E, an essential micronutrient that acts as an antioxidant, protecting cells from the harmful effects of free radicals during the breakdown of fats (i.e. lipids). Cows milk does not contain Vitamin E. It is also high in unsaturated fats, making up 90 percent of almond’s fat composition. Together, vitamin E and unsaturated fats are linked to lowering the risk of cardiovascular disease.

Almond milk is a higher source of vitamin B1, or thiamine, than cows milk. Thiamine is important for the metabolism of carbohydrates into energy, muscle contractions and nervous system signalling.

Fortification and bioavailability

Almond milk is naturally low in essential nutrients like vitamin B12 (cobalamin) and vitamin D. Vitamin B12 is critical for the formation of your DNA and red blood cells, while vitamin D helps prevent the breakdown of your bones by osteoclasts your heart, muscles and brain are functioning optimally. However, most almond milks are fortified with vitamin B12 and vitamin D. In fact, most fortified almond milks contain more vitamin B12 than cows milk. Almond milk contains typically around 50 percent of the daily recommended intake (RDI) of B12 per serving, versus 20 percent found in a serving of cows milk. On the other hand, it is believed that fortified products have a lower bioavailability than cows milk. This means that although the fortified beverages contain vitamin B12 and D, our bodies cannot fully absorb them. Calcium is another nutrient found in greater amounts in cows milk and with a higher bioavailability than almond milk: calcium in cows milk is typically 35 percent bioavailable, while calcium in fortified plant-based milks is only 25 percent (note: I couldn’t find a study specifically on almond milk calcium bioavailability, only soy milk. Both almond and soy milks are fortified using calcium carbonate, though, so one can expect the levels to be similar).

Almond milk contains a compound known as phytic acid, which may be the reason we can’t absorb as many nutrients from fortified beverages. Phytic acid, a phytate, is an “antinutrient” that slows the absorption of nutrients by binding to them. I wrote about phytates more in this post. They mainly slow the absorption of iron, zinc, magnesium and calcium. Generally they aren’t too concerning if your diet has enough variety and you are consuming enough energy.

Blood sugar regulation

Unsweetened almond milk does not raise blood sugar as much as cows milk: one serving (8 ounces) of unsweetened almond milk contains about 2 grams of sugar, while 8 ounces of cows milk contains 12 grams of sugar. Sweetened varieties, however, can contain just as much sugar as cows milk, and is an additive versus the natural sugar (lactose) found in dairy.

Nutrient comparisons between fortified almond milk and cows milk. Source: Medical News Today

Environment

Water

One of the biggest controversies over almond milk is the amount of water it takes to produce it. It’s well known now that almond milk doesn’t actually contain that many almonds: a few years ago, one of the biggest news stories around this issue had to do with a lawsuit against Almond Breeze (the brand I used to drink) because the company’s recipe was only two percent almonds. You heard me correctly, two percent. The majority of the recipe is water, sugar (if sweetened), carrageenan and sunflower lecithin. But the water in the actual drink isn’t the only part of this process using earth’s most precious liquid.

For comparison, the amount of water it takes to produce 8 ounces of milk is 255 litres. That’s a lot of water! This figure includes the harvesting, pasteurizing and processing of milk, before it gets to the consumer. The amount differs depending on how the cattle are raised: grazing cows raised on pastures require less water than those industrial settings (i.e. factory farms).

In contrast, one almond requires 1.1 gallons of water to grow and harvest, equal to 4.16 litres per almond. There are approximately 92 almonds in one 8 ounce glass of almond milk. Therefore, it takes approximately 384 litres of water to make one glass of almond milk! Think about how much almond milk coffee shops go through in a day; that’s probably millions, if not billions, of litres of water being used.

The water issue has grown in importance in the last decade because of the 2011-2017 California drought. California is the greatest producer of almonds in the world, producing 63 percent of the world’s almonds in 2016 (that’s 3.2 million tonnes of almonds!). Australia is the world’s second largest producer. Canada also produces almonds, but not nearly as much as California.

The 2011-2017 California drought is arguably the worst in the state’s history. To understand the drought, you first need to understand where California gets their water from. Primarily, California relies on water stored in snowpacks on their mountainous ranges, this natural reservoir storing 65 percent of their water. During a dry season or summer months, the snow melts to replenish California’s 1,300 groundwater reservoirs.

Below I have included some screenshots from the NOAA’s California Drought: 2011-2017 interactive report, which you can explore here. These images show how the drought spread, and how severe it was.

The drought really hit its peak between 2014 and 2015, with extreme periods spreading throughout the state. The years leading up to 2011 saw less and less rainfall, higher temperatures and forest fires. As the dry season began in 2011, groundwater pumped surged, only worsening through the years until the natural aquifers ran dry. By 2012, half of California was experiencing severe drought. California typically receives at minimum 53 inches of water from July-December in a 30 month time frame (meaning several years). In the 30 months leading up to December 2013, California had only received 33 inches of rain. Most of the underground reservoirs were at less than half of their normal capacity; by January 2014, only the highest mountain peaks had an inkling of snow on them. The groundwater was pumped so much that areas of California actually began sinkingThe higher temperatures and dryer weather allowed invasive species populations to surge, decaying natural herbivory, creating more fuel for fires, further increasing the temperatures in a positive feedback loop.

In a state that produces most of the world’s almonds (as well as other crops), this drought was not in the industry’s favour. As consumer demands rose for almond milk, more almonds were harvested, further stressing the water situation in California. You may recall produce prices surging the last few years, with a single Cauliflower head costing as much as seven dollars. When I went into a grocery store this morning, that same cauliflower cost 3.49, half the price as what it was during the drought.This is just a small reflection of the impact that the drought had on California’s crops.

Thankfully, the drought ended last year after a massive wave of rain and snow covered the state (so much so that parts of the state actually had to be evacuated because of the flooding). In the span of one week, some areas of California received an astounding 20 inches of precipitation. Recall that it took 30 months to receive 33 inches before then.

Despite no longer being in a state of drought, consumers in California should still be wary of their water use, especially in agricultural industries like almond growing. Using water too haphazardly could send them spiralling back into a deprived state.

Long story short, almonds use a lot of water (much more than it takes to produce cows milk) and are grown in an area where there isn’t always enough water for this intensive industry.

Land use

The production of cows milk undoubtedly takes up more land than almond milk production. This is because not only are you clearcutting land for factorys/farms where the cattle are raised, but you also have to create agricultural space to grow the feed for the cattle. Almond milk production only requires the agricultural land, using less space. In addition, almonds are grown on trees which produce oxygen, act as carbon sinks (lowering the amount of carbon dioxide, a GHG, in our atmosphere) to reduce global warming, recycle and provide nutrients into the soil to keep it healthy, and maintain its structure by preventing erosion. Dairy farms completely destroy land, clearcutting all natural forestry. The land cannot absorb carbon from the atmosphere, often emitting carbon instead because of the methane produced by cows. In addition, manure from cows can leach into waterways and cause eutrophication, killing entire ecosystems. Chemicals like phosphorus and nitrogen found in their feces are toxic in excessive amounts, and the methane they emit is a much more potent GHG than carbon dioxide (so it stays in the atmosphere longer).

Cattle farming destroys land directly (for the cattle farms) and indirectly (to grow their feed). Source: Sciencemag.org

However, cows milk production occurs all over the world. Almonds can only be grown in certain climates; as discussed, majority of almonds are grown in California. This makes both the financial and environmental costs of transporting these almonds and the products made with them (like almond milk) quite high. More GHGs are produced to transport almond milk long distances versus cows milk which some produce right in their own backyard. While some people make their own almond milk, where are those almonds coming from? If you’re trying to buy all your food items locally, cows milk may be the better choice for you (unless you live in California or regions of Canada where almonds are produced).

Tetra Paks and waste

Most almond milks on the market are in shelf-stable Tetra Paks. They don’t have to be refrigerated before opening, so you will often find them in the same aisles of supermarkets as juice boxes, broths and other food items also in Tetra Paks. While they look just like any old carton of milk, the biggest difference between Tetra Paks and the refrigerated milk packs you find in supermarket fridge’s is that Tetra Paks are not that easy to recycle. One stat on the company’s website said that the containers are typically 74 percent paper, 22 percent polyethylene and 4 percent aluminium. These mixed components can be difficult to separate in some recycling plants, especially in smaller municipalities with less advanced recycling technology. For instance, only 20 percent of Tetra Paks in Vietnam are recycled, with only two facilities in the entire country that allow them to do so. As a result, Tetra Paks are finding their way along Vietnam’s shorelines, being dumped into the waters only to wash up soon after. Some people in Vietnam walk the beaches every day trying to clear the mess; to rid of the items, they actually burn them, releasing harmful GHGs and other chemicals into the atmosphere.

Tetra Paks on a beach in Bin Thuan, Vietnam. Source: The Guardian.

I will point out that cows milk is also packaged in Tetra Paks, although it doesn’t seem as common. In addition, there are almond milk brands that are not packaged in Tetra Paks; the one I drink now is in a paper-based carton, which has to be refrigerated since it is not as shelf-stable without aluminium and polyethylene to preserve it. You could alternatively make your own milk and store it in something like a mason jar to reduce your waste, but keep in mind that you wouldn’t be getting essential nutrients like vitamin B12 and vitamin D that you find in fortified drinks.

Final thoughts

I’ve only scratched the surface of the many different factors you can compare between almond milk and cows milk. Whether you drink almond milk or cows milk, the decision is entirely up to you. I am not trying to sway you to pick a side in this post. Perhaps you were reading this thinking, “wait, which is she supporting?” and getting confused because I was giving so many pros/cons to each side. I tried to take an objective view when writing this post because I think both drinks are good in their own rights, and both can help create a more sustainable world if we use responsible production/waste management practices.

I drink almond milk, but I will never pass up homemade gelato (if you’ve ever been with me anywhere, you know I always hunt for an ice cream place to stop by!), I’ll gladly eat pizza when going out to an Italian restaurant, and greek yogurt = life. It isn’t about making sacrifices, but compromises: do what works best for you, while keeping our planet in mind as you do it. If we all become just a little bit more conscientious when making decisions about our food choices, clothing, personal care items, we can all help make the world a better place for us and future generations to live.

I hope you enjoyed this post. As always, thank you for reading!

Until next time!

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